Profile:Dish Return
Club Med: Dive Into the Mediterranean's Many Cuisines
March 2004 - Edited from Catering Magazine, Deanne Moskowitz
Under the Tuscan Sun
While the scope of Mediterranean is expansive, to many the term still signifies the simple foods of southern Europe, especially France and Italy, cuisines redolent of wine and perfumed by indigenous herbs such as basil, garlic, oregano, rosemary, saffron and thyme. Long the regional darling, Provence is sharing our affection now with Tuscany. Simple and rustic, these southern European menus are perfect for showcasing the freshest local ingredients.

Even in big cities, Tuscan is often the ticket as evidenced by one fresh spring buffet produced by Peachtree & Ward Catering in Philadelphia, Pa. Featuring a spectacular Tuscan-style twin entree of grilled porterhouse steaks, marinated in extra virgin olive oil, red wine, roasted garlic and fresh rosemary, and whole grilled branzino, the menu made the most of garden produce: fava/asparagus soup served in sake cups, ficelle crostini with sauteed shiitake mushrooms, homemade 'white' pizzas with pesto, and roasted red and yellow peppers, goat cheese/fruit displays, grilled Portobello mushrooms with pears; eggplant and goat cheese lasagnetta; roasted beet, onion and orange salad, and crisp-fried whole artichokes.

Out of Africa
From Southern Europe and the Eastern Mediterranean, it is a small culinary step to the cuisines of North Africa. Many caterers are taking the leap, exploring such accessible cultures as Morocco and Tunisia.

Rich in spices, North African cooking achieves its distinctive dynamic using coriander, saffron, chiles, dried ginger, cinnamon and paprika, as well as harissa, a searing paste of garlic, chiles, olive oil and salt. Couscous is a dining staple, lamb is the meat mainstay, and tagine (a dish slow-cooked in a clay pot by the same name), is ubiquitous. Other earmarks are the enhancement of savory foods with dried and fresh fruits, the predilection for preserved lemons, and the prevalence of nuts, appearing sometimes unexpectedly in sauces and desserts.

For a bride of Turkish and Israeli heritage, Peachtree designed a multi course Moroccan wedding menu. Shepherd's salad with romaine in lemon vinaigrette was followed by cod with a preserved lemon and olive compote, and orzo with fennel and red onion on watermelon radish; Sultan's Delight, (a lamb with eggplant puree), and Circasian chicken, shredded with a walnut sauce, and accompanied by chickpea salad.

Recognizing that some guests aren't ready for a wallop of robust Mediterranean spices, Wallace offers exotic dishes like Moroccan Lamb, (a rack marinated in coriander, cardamom, cumin, anise, tumeric, paprika and lemon juice), as an accompaniment, not the centerpiece of the meal. Since well-traveled business people seem interested in new tastes, however, he incorporates an around-the-world buffet in the hotel's Convention Marketing Package. It's an international smorgasbord including Sicilian seafood pasta, Moroccan spiced chicken, Provencal lamb ragout, warm tabouli and ratatouille.

Something Special
With its propensity for vegetables and olive oil, Mediterranean is a boon to vegetarian and kosher catering. Chefs can satisfy special requirements without sacrificing good taste.

Spurred by the ongoing interest in healthful eating and the increasing openness to new foods, now many kosher clients are more accepting of dishes with an Israeli heritage rather than an Eastern European one, according to Jon Weinrott, president of Peachtree Kosher and its parent company Peachtree & Ward. Not only are these Sephardic foods more delectable than typical deli and Chinese stations, but they help chefs deal with the difficulty of separating meat and dairy.

Far from second-class substitutions, these meals work interchangeably for kosher and non-kosher events. For example, braised veal in a tomato/veal broth with kobocha squash puree and roasted cippolini onions, and Moroccan salmon stained a stunning yellow by a turmeric-infused oil, were main courses at two Peachtree events recently, a kosher meat meal for 150 and a non-kosher, small-plates party for 90.

Foreign Intrigue
The setting in a funky designer retail furniture warehouse and a menu of playful foods contributed to the Moroccan flair of a bar mitzvah catered by Peachtree in November. Adding to the mood were Moroccan beef "cigars" with lime aioli; a mezze table; kebabs grilled to order outside, Moroccan spiced salmon with smoked tomatoes; couscous with slivered almonds, roasted onions and dried fruits; and grilled eggplant torta with spinach and polenta in red pepper romesco sauce.

Good and Slow
Developed by poor cultures, Mediterranean cuisines capitalize on slow-cooking methods, which can eek out exquisite flavor from inexpensive ingredients. As some meat prices rise, chefs are learning to appreciate braising as a way of combating high costs while producing exceptional food.

Always a believer in braising, Weinrott says he serves braised dishes as small plates or pre-portions them in ring molds for plated dinners. A French chicken dish with tomatoes, prunes and onions is one of his favorite small dishes to serve.

Another, of Italian derivation, calls for roasting a panko-and-parmesan breaded chicken breast, and setting it on a polenta cake, which incorporates the braised leg and thigh meat of the chicken, he says.