Under the Tuscan Sun
While the scope of Mediterranean is expansive, to many the term still
signifies the simple foods of southern Europe, especially France and
Italy, cuisines redolent of wine and perfumed by indigenous herbs
such as basil, garlic, oregano, rosemary, saffron and thyme. Long
the regional darling, Provence is sharing our affection now with Tuscany.
Simple and rustic, these southern European menus are perfect for showcasing
the freshest local ingredients.
Even in big cities, Tuscan is often the ticket as evidenced by one
fresh spring buffet produced by Peachtree & Ward Catering in Philadelphia,
Pa. Featuring a spectacular Tuscan-style twin entree of grilled
porterhouse steaks, marinated in extra virgin olive oil, red wine,
roasted garlic and fresh rosemary, and whole grilled branzino, the
menu made the most of garden produce: fava/asparagus soup served
in sake cups, ficelle crostini with sauteed shiitake mushrooms,
homemade 'white' pizzas with pesto, and roasted red and yellow peppers,
goat cheese/fruit displays, grilled Portobello mushrooms with pears;
eggplant and goat cheese lasagnetta; roasted beet, onion and orange
salad, and crisp-fried whole artichokes.
Out of Africa
From Southern Europe and the Eastern Mediterranean, it is a small
culinary step to the cuisines of North Africa. Many caterers are taking
the leap, exploring such accessible cultures as Morocco and Tunisia.
Rich in spices, North African cooking achieves its distinctive dynamic
using coriander, saffron, chiles, dried ginger, cinnamon and paprika,
as well as harissa, a searing paste of garlic, chiles, olive oil and
salt. Couscous is a dining staple, lamb is the meat mainstay, and
tagine (a dish slow-cooked in a clay pot by the same name), is ubiquitous.
Other earmarks are the enhancement of savory foods with dried and
fresh fruits, the predilection for preserved lemons, and the prevalence
of nuts, appearing sometimes unexpectedly in sauces and desserts.
For a bride of Turkish and Israeli heritage, Peachtree designed a
multi course Moroccan wedding menu. Shepherd's salad with romaine
in lemon vinaigrette was followed by cod with a preserved lemon and
olive compote, and orzo with fennel and red onion on watermelon radish;
Sultan's Delight, (a lamb with eggplant puree), and Circasian chicken,
shredded with a walnut sauce, and accompanied by chickpea salad.
Recognizing that some guests aren't ready for a wallop of robust Mediterranean
spices, Wallace offers exotic dishes like Moroccan Lamb, (a rack marinated
in coriander, cardamom, cumin, anise, tumeric, paprika and lemon juice),
as an accompaniment, not the centerpiece of the meal. Since well-traveled
business people seem interested in new tastes, however, he incorporates
an around-the-world buffet in the hotel's Convention Marketing Package.
It's an international smorgasbord including Sicilian seafood pasta,
Moroccan spiced chicken, Provencal lamb ragout, warm tabouli and ratatouille.
Something Special
With its propensity for vegetables and olive oil, Mediterranean is
a boon to vegetarian and kosher catering. Chefs can satisfy special
requirements without sacrificing good taste.
Spurred by the ongoing interest in healthful eating and the increasing
openness to new foods, now many kosher clients are more accepting
of dishes with an Israeli heritage rather than an Eastern European
one, according to Jon Weinrott, president of Peachtree Kosher and
its parent company Peachtree & Ward. Not only are these Sephardic
foods more delectable than typical deli and Chinese stations, but
they help chefs deal with the difficulty of separating meat and dairy.
Far from second-class substitutions, these meals work interchangeably
for kosher and non-kosher events. For example, braised veal in a tomato/veal
broth with kobocha squash puree and roasted cippolini onions, and
Moroccan salmon stained a stunning yellow by a turmeric-infused oil,
were main courses at two Peachtree events recently, a kosher meat
meal for 150 and a non-kosher, small-plates party for 90.
Foreign Intrigue
The setting in a funky designer retail furniture warehouse and a
menu of playful foods contributed to the Moroccan flair of a bar
mitzvah catered by Peachtree in November. Adding to the mood were
Moroccan beef "cigars" with lime aioli; a mezze table;
kebabs grilled to order outside, Moroccan spiced salmon with smoked
tomatoes; couscous with slivered almonds, roasted onions and dried
fruits; and grilled eggplant torta with spinach and polenta in red
pepper romesco sauce.
Good and Slow
Developed by poor cultures, Mediterranean cuisines capitalize on slow-cooking
methods, which can eek out exquisite flavor from inexpensive ingredients.
As some meat prices rise, chefs are learning to appreciate braising
as a way of combating high costs while producing exceptional food.
Always a believer in braising, Weinrott says he serves braised dishes
as small plates or pre-portions them in ring molds for plated dinners.
A French chicken dish with tomatoes, prunes and onions is one of his
favorite small dishes to serve.
Another, of Italian derivation, calls for roasting a panko-and-parmesan
breaded chicken breast, and setting it on a polenta cake, which incorporates
the braised leg and thigh meat of the chicken, he says.